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The holes on the leaves
Once upon a time, an old man was walking around the temple courtyard. He was stopped by something in the air; he looked up and realized a large cherry blossom tree. He looked closer, and discovered several areas on the leaves were eaten by insects. He was impressed by the random patterns nature made...
The name of the temple was Shiroko Kannon-ji, located in Ise region (current Suzuka City area in Mie prefecture), and this small incident in the courtyard took place more than 1300 years ago. There are various theories to the origin of Japanese stenciling, and the exact details are unknown, yet I tend to like this story. Great discovery can occur from something as simple as taking a walk in the garden! Incidentally, about four stencil shops already existed in the Enreki time (782-806) according to the documents kept in the same temple.
What is Katagami?
Katagami is a carved paper or stencil that is used for resist pattern dying on Japanese kimonos. 'Kata' means pattern and 'gami' indicates paper. So, a Katagami is a "pattern paper" which interestingly describes its usage rather than referring to the technique employed. Katagami is carefully handmade by skilled craftsmen who specialize in stencil carving. Prior to the carving, several Japanese washi papers are adjoined to form a single sheet of paper and then soaked in tannin-rich persimmon juice (kakishibu) which adds the wonderful warm brown tone to the paper and makes it durable and water resistant allowing the cravers to work in precision.
Some stencil patterns are so ornate that it is hard to believe that they are created by hand. For example, in the technique called 'Kiribori' in which many tiny dots are carved to form larger repeat patterns, more than hundred holes are carved out in one square centimeter. From a distance it looks plain, but at close hand, the surface shows breathtaking details. The chic kimono patterns (komon) that were loved by the Edo townspeople were born from such laborious carving tradition.
Wax and Wane
The art of carving papers in Japan which is said to have started from around the Nara period (710-794) diminished for a while due to the increasing popularity of woven textiles around the Heian period (794-1185). However, from the Azuchi-Momoyama to Edo period (1568-1868), because of the smaller patterns in clothing favoured by the ruling samurai class, stencils gained popularity again. The stencil patterns made during this period includes not only minute patterns explained earlier, but various designs and techniques which utilized traditional Japanese patterns. By the way, the characteristic of Katagami of this period is the height (length) of the carved area. It is very narrow, only about 4-6 inches at most, and the dyer had to repeat the dyeing process using Katagami many times in order to apply patterns on the entire bolt.
By early seventeenth century, Ise region -- already an acclaimed centre of stencil production -- was incorporated into the Kishu clan ruled by one of the influential Tokugawa families, hence received a powerful back up and flourished its exclusive stencil industry.
Towards the end of the Edo period, the popularity of stencil dyeing was briefly replaced again by weaving. However in the Meiji period (1868-1912), thanks to the development of Yuzen dye method which experimented many dye patterns using stencil papers, regained its fame and continued to flourish until WWII.
By the way, Meiji period Katagami are generally larger than Edo period Katagami and owing to the influence of western patterns around this time, patterns on Katagami of the Meiji period became even more versatile. By mid Showa period (1926-1989), some of the patterns created by stencil dyeing were so well made that they could not be distinguished from hand-dyed yuzen.
The production of Katagami, unfortunately began to wane after the WWII, due to the development of dyeing techniques using modern photography and general loss of Japanese interest in kimonos. Now, only from the dimension of the preservation of traditional craftworks, stencil technique is passed on to next generation in limited local areas.
The charm of Katagami and how to enjoy it
Many beautiful designs on Japanese kimonos start from the Katagami. Its intricate carving patterns or even the tasteful brown colour alone makes it unique and different from how it is seen on kimonos as final patterns.
There are many ways of enjoying Katagami. Of course, one of the most exciting things to do is to use the paper as a stencil print just like how it was originally used (but make sure that the Katagami is durable!). You can also display them in frames or place them between glass table tops. In frames, they look beautiful underlaid by papers with colour gradations. A transparent glass photo stand will show the beautiful Katagami from both sides. A lamp shade made up of a Katagami will filter gentle light into your room. Along with a little background story, stencil papers may also make lovely gifts to your kimono-loving friends.
Very old and ornately carved stencil papers can cost a fortune, but from our collection, we have selected ones which are affordable and suitable for first time collectors.
We look forward to hearing your creative ideas using the Katagami!
Click here to see our Katagami Listing
August 18, 2003
Words by Tetsuo Matsumoto
CHUU Inc.
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